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<< To start << Go back Goto step 3 >> Goto step 4 >> KTM (Austria). Share information about KTM with others Clutch bearing, gear mechanism and piston Here you can see the gear mechanism mounted as supposed. The entire mechanism can be removed in one piece. If there isn't any particular wear it's best not to take it apart. Leave as it is. When mounting the thing again the mounting holes are bigger allowing you to move it around a bit. That room is for you to adjust the action so it entirely engages / disengage the gears when moving the lever up and down. Note that you are probably more interested to have the gear lever stroke working just a slight bit more since you upshift under power whereas downshift often is done under less stressing circumstances.
The clutch bearing is now a needle bearing. The item number is "HK1622" and this particular piece is a swedish SKF bearing. When I was a boy those where supposed to have a slight higher quality. Forget all about that nowadays. The bearing had "Made in germany" stamped on it. Not bad but according to a real specialist and friend (Maico friend) of mine there aren't any differences in quality these days. Buy cheap and change oil. I have some small amount of grease in the bearing at the picture just to give it an easy start in life. My way is to start the engine and change oil after about one minute running, I repeate that process at least two more times. That means, at least new oil four times without even running. After that I change oil after every run on all my bikes.
Snapping the circlip into place. The original one was pretty worn but I have a box full of those. I was mighty surprised to find that I only had circlips for inner mount in this exact dimension. Well I just have to use that then. There isn't any stress from springs or anything and the clutch disengage pin is located in the housing just outside. From what I can judge there is no way it can go anywhere.
All done so far. The pressure plate on the outside often get slightly bent edges, those three supposed to press the clutch stack apart. This is recognized when is cannot be removed easily put presses against the outer edges of the holes in the clutch basket. This can easily be fixed with a small hammer and you will have a better working clutch. CHECK OUT my homemade gasket again, I sell those for $325 each. Ehh, just kidding!!
The final picture is the crack on my piston. The reason for this according to me is poor quality in material and / or design. The piston isn't abused and if it wasn't for the crack I would reuse it. The cylinder is in really excellent shape. I found one at Erzatsteile in Germany at a good price but then Kip Kern at POG made me a better offer. I want to thank both anyway for answering my questions and moving fast, so to speak.
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